Review: Linkstar LL-600D Studio Strobe


Let’s have a look at the Linkstar LL-600D Studio Strobe. I purchased one of this..

…rockers recently.

The Linkstar LL-600D is as you probably already guessed a 600 Watt/Second studio strobe. It also has some little and bigger brothers in the product range. The main difference is the power.

I use it mainly in my Westcott 7 Foot Parabolic umbrella that I reviewed a while back in this post and video. To fill this umbrella in an optimal way it is mandatory to have a bear bulb flash in order to make use of the entire reflective surface inside the umbrella.

Especially if you are working with the diffuser panel.

If you work with a smaller studio strobe like (for example) the Falcon Eyes SS-150F you will not make use of the entire umbrella. Due to the fact that it has not a removable reflector and due to the power. Even in full power it barely fill the whole thing.

The Falcon Eyes strobes are still very good for the smaller studio work. Even when shooting with groups of people you can get some decent results. There are just some limitations that you’ll encounter in certain situations that you have to deal with.

Back to the Linkstar LL0600D.

But first a little tip: if you want to make sure that you are using the maximum surface of your parabolic umbrella set your aperture to F16 or F22 and then take a picture of the flash itself. This way you can see if you have a hot spot in the middle and a fall of to the outer area. if the whole surface of the diffuser is evenly lit on the image you make use of the complete surface.

OK, let’s go to some details of the Linkstar LL-600D:

In the video I didn’t mention that it has a cooler. It has a cooler, just if you wondered about that.

Right beside the very obvious power-button you have the model light. If you switch it on the power of the model light will vary depending on the power you are using for the flash output (see the video). After each flash it will go out and will be back on as soon as the flash is ready for the next shot.

If you prefer to just have the model light at full power all of the time go ahead and press the button right beside it. It is labeled ‘Full’. The power of the model light itself is by the way 250 watts.

The next button is the one for the beeper. It will as the name already suggests ‘beep’ to give you an indication that the strobe is ready for the next flash. Depending on the power output you’ve set it (full, half or 1/32 etc.) the refresh time will of course vary.

Personally I find this bleeping annoying and don’t use it. This doesn’t take away that it can come in very handy. Especially if you are shooting in an environment that that doesn’t allows you to have a quick look at the ready-led.

The next one is the remote-button and I can already tell you that you are better be careful with this one.

Here is why:

When you are using a sync-cable or a radiographic remote like the pocket wizzard, pixl pawn or whatever brand you don’t need to set the remote button in the on-position. You just don’t!

What the remote button does is activating the light-sensitive or better said flash-sensitive dome on top of the strobe. This dome will react on a flash signal from other flashes and then will flash as well. Thus you only use the remote button if you want to trigger your flash in an optical way rather than the radiographic way.

If you have put the reflector off of the Linkstar LL-600D and use it like I do in a way that it bounces the light into the umbrella and back it will result that the flash is giving a signal to itself and will not stop flashing. Uncontrolled…. forever… not reckoning with the fact that it’s not recharged yet…

This can damage your strobe! be aware of this. Most likely will this occur when you’ve set the power to full or half.

OK, now we got this out of the way there is the digital display that shows you how much power you are using.

You can adjust the power from full to 1/32. On the display it says 1 – 6. Where 6 is full power and 1 is 1/32. It is a little bummer for pro’s as we are used to walk and talk in f-stops as f-stops are the thing we understand and love.

But you can get used to it very quickly as it is really easy to recalculate:

6 = Full Power
5 = 1/2 Power
4 = 1/4 Power
3 = 1/8 Power
2 = 1/16 Power and…
1 = 1/32 Power

Due to the higher power of this strobe you will be amazed about how often you will shoot in the lower region.

I hope you found this a little bit helpful. If you find some typo’s just let me know and I’ll correct them.

Make sure to share this with your friends if it’s relevant to them. Have a great day ahead.

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